Pink Rock Canyon encompasses an almost 200,000 acre wilderness simply 20 minutes from the Las Vegas strip within the Mojave Desert. Not solely a vacationer vacation spot with uncommon geological formations, this distinctive park was once a house to dinosaurs. Right this moment, it’s stuffed with hikers and climbers out to overcome the large sandstone partitions, like me. With heat climate many of the yr and each kind of climbing from bouldering to sport to trad, this park has a mission for everybody.
Despite the fact that there are round two 1000’s climbing routes in Pink Rock, lots of the tougher partitions can go away even probably the most gifted climbers off route or worse.
The Mission
I’m a rock climber for Maxim Ropes, Scarpa and Physivantage, and my vacation spot in Pink Rock was the intimidating Rainbow Wall in Juniper Canyon. The fourth highest peak within the Pink Rock Canyon Nationwide Conservation Space, the Rainbow Wall sits simply behind Mount Wilson, and is likely one of the most outstanding pure options of the Pink Rock space. At 5,660 ft, the uncovered flat wall is seen from the freeway exterior of the park.
The route we have been tackling is an unpublished 13+ trad combined climb with no second ascent. Juniper Canyon could also be probably the most lovely canyons in Pink Rock, however it’s also probably the most troublesome to entry. Attending to the climb requires both a 2.5 hour hike from exterior the park, or an roughly 2 hour hike from the car parking zone for Pine Creek. We began the hike from exterior, understanding that we could also be returning after the park closed because of the problem of our goal.
The method crosses the fuzzy desert till you attain an extended steady scramble over slippery sandstone boulders. Then, with the help of a hard and fast rope, you hulk your gear to the bottom of the large slab. The slab itself takes round half-hour and simply when your calves are screaming for mercy, you attain the underside of the wall and the beginning of the route. For sure, the hike goes quicker with out ropes, trad gear, water, and snacks. At this level, I had been as much as Rainbow Wall many occasions, and I knew that after you handed the scramble something goes. Rainbow wall has just a few well-known routes, just like the Authentic Route (5.12a) pioneered by Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton in 1973, however even that climb doesn’t see many ascents regardless of many makes an attempt. Climbing on rock with so few guests means all types of obstacles come your manner, from caught ropes, to rock fall, to surprising storms.
Juniper Canyon is like one other world. It’s like its personal microclimate, continually disrespecting on-line climate predictions. As soon as, we even noticed a household of untamed skunks on the market at midnight. The uncommon time you might spot one other climber or hiker, it looks like a reminder that standard life carries on. This journey occurred throughout mid-winter, often the proper time to climb. Despite the fact that the clouds seemed thick that morning, we set out on the method, decided to sort out our goal.
The 2 hour hike felt lengthy and slipping on one of many massive boulders, I puzzled to myself if I used to be even psyched to climb eight+ sketchy pitches. We stopped for water earlier than the slab after which gritted our enamel beginning up the strong sloping sandstone.
“Are these storm clouds?” I requested my accomplice, as enormous darkish clouds rolled in out of nowhere.
“Ought to we flip again?” he requested. I stated we must always simply get to the bottom and regroup, possibly it might go, however midway by means of the slab droplets began to land round us. The clouds
thinned. We hoped that it was only a warning and never a storm.
The Loss of life Slab
Lastly, on the finish of the grueling hike, we threw off our packs, and sat on the base of the wall. Occupying the small jagged ledge above the talus discipline main down, we chugged water. Judging by the darkish sky, we determined to show again—it’s not solely higher to climb in good climate, however climbing moist sandstone is a no-no. The fragile nature of this rock means you possibly can trigger loads of harm and improve erosion in the event you climb it when moist.
About midway down the slippery slab, the rain began to pour and streaks of electrical energy lit up the sky. Any desert dweller is aware of that when lightning strikes, it’s a severe desert storm not the standard threats of rain with measly drops. We hadn’t even packed rain jackets.
The rocky slab was soaked quick, and our sneakers slipped. The slab isn’t a cakewalk. It’s most likely a Yosemite grade 5.0. Some folks even name it the “demise slab.” I considered my pal who had damaged his ankle simply strolling down this very slab, and never even in rain. With enormous packs chock-full of substances, I sat down and tried to slip down the slab, however when the steepness kicked in halfway, even that was an excessive amount of with out strong ft to catch my physique’s momentum. We sat, getting slowly soaked, hoping to attend out the rain and proceed, however the rain elevated. The slab, now fully soaked, was unattainable to descend. Ultimately, we made our strategy to the bottom of the climb to attend.
No Turning Again
The rain didn’t cease. We have been caught. There was no cell service and nobody to contact for assist. On the base of the climb, there was no shelter. We looked for a close-by cave however there have been none. The talus discipline didn’t provide any shelter, simply uncovered steep jagged rocks. With nowhere to hold our emergency tarp, not sufficient bushes and no bolts, we huddled below our jackets.
The winter wind continued to blow rain onto our soaked our bodies. I remembered my down jacket was hydrophobic, grateful for slight safety from the moist. The storm eased off however the rock was so moist, there was no manner we might safely descend—we needed to spend the evening. We have been at an altitude of virtually 6,000 ft and temperatures can drop to as little as 30 levels Fahrenheit at evening up there. We have been ready for winter temperatures when energetic, however didn’t have the correct clothes to spend the evening if we weren’t shifting.
Buried below our coats, the rain continued all evening and I lay awake chanting to myself to only make it by means of till morning. Ultimately, my down soaked by means of and I shivered as my physique tried to carry onto the little warmth it had. Drifting off and waking, chilly, I clinged to the hope that quickly the solar would peek by means of the darkish sky. Each infrequently I’d get up and listen to the patter of the rain. I’d examine in with my accomplice, “You continue to okay?” and he’d mumble. A small puddle of water shaped round our our bodies – it was official we have been submerged. Curling up in a small ball, I felt decided to complete the mission, however the goal had modified—the mission was now simply to make it residence.
The shady north-facing wall provided no solar warming our faces. I had barely slept and my accomplice much less. On the first signal of sunshine, nonetheless soaked to the bone, I woke my accomplice up and stated, “We now have to go now.” The solar was rising, however the sky was nonetheless filled with clouds, threatening to strand us even longer.
“I wasn’t certain I used to be going to make it,” he stated. “I didn’t sleep a wink.”
“However we did it,” I stated in reply.
The slab had partially dried however I nonetheless went down on my butt to maintain from sliding and falling. My accomplice and I traded off going first and serving to the second safely down. It took over an hour to only get down the slab.
Lastly, standing on the base of the slab, we knew we might make it residence.
“Do you need to relaxation?” my accomplice requested.
I replied, “No manner, let’s get the hell out of right here.”
I’ve gone again to the Rainbow Wall since, however not with no waterproof jacket, a extra thorough climate scout and a visual examine of the clouds. I discovered my lesson—don’t attempt to query Mom Nature, as a result of she’s going to certainly win.
