“Oh, good, are you occurring a cruise?”
This was the response I bought final summer time once I instructed mates that we had been going to Alaska on our household trip.
“No, we’re going to Homer,” I replied. This reply was typically met with clean stares adopted by me explaining why we selected this far-flung vacation spot devoid of any fancy buffets and deliberate shore excursions.
My husband and I and our two teenage sons like lively, off-the-beaten-path journeys. Homer, Alaska promised up-close bear encounters, climbing, fishing, berry selecting, and a contact of Russian historical past. Positioned 200 miles south of Anchorage, the city of 6,000 folks additionally had just a few good eating places, a should for our foodie household.
Right here’s what we did.
Getting Up Shut with Grizzly Bears
One of many actions that lured us to Homer was the prospect to see grizzly bears within the distant wilderness. We signed up for a half-day guided bear-viewing journey with Alaska Bear Adventures. The day we arrived, we headed to their workplace to examine in and get weighed. We might be taking off the subsequent morning in a Cessna bush airplane to grizzly territory. It was vital to have correct weight distributions in these small planes, the information defined. We additionally went over the foundations: deliver lunch, however no tuna sandwiches or snacks with crumbs; don’t put on any garments worn fishing. Grizzlies have an acute sense of odor and might detect meals from 20 miles away in sure circumstances.
The following morning, we had a security briefing about the best way to ship an emergency misery sign, donned life vests and hip waders, and boarded the four-passenger airplane. I hoped my older son paid consideration to which buttons to push on the radio, since he was sitting subsequent to the pilot. Our vacation spot was Lake Clark Nationwide Park, one of many world’s most famed bear-viewing areas. The one solution to get to this distant glacier-fed lake is by airplane or boat.
The clouds parted as we approached the lake, and our pilot (who was additionally our naturalist information) circled just a few occasions earlier than touchdown on the seashore. Small black dots moved throughout the panorama. As we descended, the dots morphed into bears splashing within the river. After a bumpy touchdown, we hiked alongside the seashore towards the furry mammals. Summer season is feeding time, they usually had been bulking up for winter. A mother and her cub grazed on sedge grass simply throughout the stream from us. A mature male napped close by, his distinctive hump seen above the tall grass. He didn’t appear to be bothered by us in any respect.
The hour handed shortly because the bears roamed in entrance of us with the snow-capped Aleutian Mountains within the background. Reluctantly, we climbed again into the airplane. The pilot had a shock: he took the longer, scenic route again to Homer, flying over icy blue glaciers, volcanos, snow fields, and turquoise lakes. I pressed my face (and my digital camera) towards the window to seize the jagged mountains and fertile valleys. I’m undecided which was probably the most spectacular a part of the day: the majestic bears or the view of their distant, wild habitat.
Professional tip: Nature buffs who need to spend extra with the bears can e book a six-day immersive expertise at Nat Hab’s Alaska Bear Camp, full with heated tents and gourmand meals.
Mountaineering in Kachemak Bay State Park
The snowy Chugach Mountains in Kachemak Bay State Park beckoned us from throughout the water. This distant 400-acre wilderness playground on the Kenai peninsula can solely be reached by airplane or boat, including to the attract. We booked a fast 20-minute water taxi experience to spend the day climbing within the park. On a “uncommon sunny day,” (locals instructed us there had been three the entire summer time), the water sparkled like diamonds. Playful sea otters appeared to be having fun with the climate too, and the captain slowed for a more in-depth look. These lovely marine mammals had been a detailed tie to the bear cub we noticed within the race for cuteness.
We pulled in simply shut sufficient in order that the fold-down ladder from the boat reached the seashore. After arranging a late afternoon pickup from one other cove, we waved goodbye to the captain. I felt a bit like a contestant on Survivor as I took a psychological stock of my provides: lunch, water, bear spray, sunscreen, mosquito netting, and loads of heat garments.
To entry the Glacier Lake trailhead, we walked a half-mile alongside the gravel seashore, stopping to search for starfish within the tidal swimming pools alongside the best way. We traded the salty odor of the ocean for the woodsy scent of spruce timber as we entered the forest. We stopped for a more in-depth have a look at some animal prints on the path—perhaps a coyote or a fox? Pink and yellow columbine, pink fireweed, and alien-like mushrooms all caught our consideration. Small, purple rectangular watermelon berries made a juicy snack.
About an hour into the hike, the Grewingk Glacier got here into view. Icebergs of all sizes greeted us as we arrived on the lake. After lunch, I rested my head on a driftwood log. Glancing behind me, I noticed that each my sons had been resting too. Is there something higher than a full abdomen and a nap within the sunshine?
Not eager to miss the boat, we began towards our pickup spot. We completed the 6-mile trek in good time, stopping to benefit from the views over Halibut Cove. As an alternative of ready on the seashore, we explored a lesser-traveled path alongside the ridge, fastidiously avoiding the Satan’s Membership vegetation with their irritating spines. Because the path narrowed, piles of bear scat appeared all over the place and a musky scent hung within the air.
“Whoever’s in entrance ought to have the bear spray prepared,” I referred to as out to my sons who had been farther down the path.
“I assume I ought to work out how this factor works,” my older son replied, taking the bear spray out of his backpack. The following factor we knew the air was full of eye-watering pepper spray. We hiked down the hill to the water taxi pickup spot, laughing the entire approach and attempting to clear our throats and lungs.
Professional Tip: Be bear conscious. Hike in teams, carry bear spray, and make noise. Don’t depart meals unattended and get rid of rubbish in bear-proof containers.
Visiting Seldovia
Athabascan Indians, indigenous Aleuts, and native Sugpiak Eskimos lived in Seldovia for lots of of years earlier than Russian fur merchants arrived within the 1800s. The newcomers christened their residence “Herring Bay” in Russian, and fish canneries remained a powerful financial drive till the Good Friday Earthquake in 1964, which leveled the city. It took a decade to rebuild.
Simply throughout the bay from Homer, this picturesque village of 250 residents is accessed solely by airplane or boat. We booked seats on the Seldovia Bay Ferry for the 45-minute uneven experience throughout the bay. A sea otter lazed within the harbor, greeting the ferry.
Guests come to Seldovia for gorgeous views, climbing, kayaking, and berry selecting in summer time. The truth that it’s onerous to get to means it’s not overrun with vacationers like a few of Alaska’s better-known spots. We explored the historic boardwalk on the prime of the harbor, poking into outlets promoting sea-glass jewellery and seal-fur wallets made by Native Alaskans.
The Seldovia Customer Middle & Museum is a good place to be taught in regards to the historical past of the realm and choose up a map. St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church sits simply up the hill, and we stopped for a fast look. Inbuilt 1891, the church continues to be used at present on Russian holidays and funerals. Central Park sits subsequent to the church, with whimsical wooden carvings of marine mammals. We walked to the outskirts of city to the Otterbahn Path, recognized for prolific wild blueberries. Sadly, the chilly summer time meant we solely discovered just a few salmon berries and thimble berries alongside the 1-mile route. Interpretive indicators alongside the path level out natural world within the forest.
The path ends at Exterior Seaside, the place we had been rewarded with expansive views of Mt. Redoubt and Mt. Iliamna throughout the water. These lively, snowy volcanoes rise majestically out of water to succeed in above 10,000 toes. We couldn’t have requested for a greater view from our picnic spot on the seashore.
After lunch, we retraced our steps again into city, stopping at Jack and Avia’s Restaurant for an iced espresso and do-it-yourself wild raspberry cinnamon roll. We soaked up the sunshine on the deck earlier than catching the ferry again to Homer.
Foraging on the Farmer’s Market
We additionally visited the Homer Farmer’s Market. Once we arrived at 10 AM, the car parking zone was already full. Pals had been greeting one another and catching up in Russian and English. Households stood in line to purchase produce from native farms and ice cream. It was summer time in spite of everything, even when I used to be sporting a down jacket. Picnic tables supplied a spot to take a seat and socialize with a deal with from the market.
First, we scoped out the beautiful shows of buttery yellow cauliflower, purple kohlrabi, and purple currants. There have been all types of berries—from natural strawberries and huckleberries to some unique cloudberries.
At one sales space, a younger boy and lady bought raspberry lemonade. Their mother handed us samples of do-it-yourself bread. Carrying a headband and apron, she spoke Russian along with her youngsters. There are just a few small communities on the outskirts of Homer settled by Russians who got here for freedom to worship. Russian Previous Believers Communities might be discovered scattered across the Kenai peninsula, together with the cities of Nikolaevsk, Voznesenka, and Razdolna. Many turned fishermen and a few began farms, promoting their items at native markets.
I tucked the still-warm bread into my procuring bag and acquired a jar of strawberry rhubarb jam and a few purple broccoli for dinner. Since we hadn’t had any luck fishing, we stopped at Chugach Wild Salmon and picked up a complete salmon, a chunk of frozen halibut, and a few smoked salmon stomach. Dinner was a real Alaskan feast.
The place to Keep and Eat in Homer, Alaska
Since we like the additional area and a kitchen, we rented an Airbnb throughout our journey to Homer. In case you want motels, contemplate staying on Homer Spit. This 4.5-mile lengthy landmass juts into Kachemak Bay, with gorgeous water and mountain views throughout. The highway is lined with eating places and outlets perched on picket boardwalks overlooking the seashore. Land’s Finish Resort instructions a premium location on the finish of the spit with 180-degree views. The Driftwood Inn is steps from Bishop’s Seaside, a fantastic location for seashore walks and sundown viewing.
Once we discover a good factor, we keep it up. We ate twice at Finn’s Pizza, with its sunroom overlooking the bay, and twice at Boardwalk Fish & Chips. Finn’s makes wood-fired pizzas with native natural elements and hearty, warming soups. The alternatives are easy at Boardwalk Fish & Chips: halibut or cod. The peerlessly cooked fish comes on a stick, surrounded by waffle fries. Go early if you need chowder, as a result of they promote out. This informal seafood shack has inside and out of doors seating with water views. We stopped at Sea Sweets greater than as soon as (however who’s counting) to attempt the contemporary, scorching mini donuts and native goodies. Turquoise Tree Natural Alaskan Goodies are available distinctive flavors like spruce tip, fennel, and cranberry. We purchased a number of and had our personal chocolate tasting.
Per week in Homer refreshed our appreciation for nature and our shared love of journey. Mountaineering by way of spruce forests, picnicking with views of volcanoes, and in search of bears and berries within the wilderness created household reminiscences that also linger.
